Today we are checking out the western part of the island. Our destination is the lakes of Sete Cidades which are in a valley surrounded by mountains – they are volcanic crater lakes. The GPS on google maps starts to take us on tiny roads past farmland and on smaller and smaller roads, so I put in a town on the coast to redirect to a bigger road. We soon found out why we were first directed to backroads when we are stopped by a policeman stating the road is closed. The route he indicates brings us right back to where google maps first took us. OK so up this little winding road we go, higher and higher up the mountain, into the clouds and fog. We finally get to the top and a lookout over the lakes. Beautiful…….. 2 lakes completely surrounded by mountains and the small village of the same name. The lakes (actually one lake separated by a bridge) are a popular sightseeing destination because of the folklore and how they appear from high up – one a blue colour and one green because of how they each reflect the vegetation around them. The folk tale of how they came to be is a fun read.
In the village is a very old church called Sao Nicolau Church which dates from 1937 – one of the oldest we’ve seen, and also one of the least adorned, but this somehow makes it even more beautiful.
Continuing on we drive back up into the hills to get up and over the mountain surrounding the village. At the midway point we come across a look out and stop. Looking at the sign, I realize it is the other end of the walk I had wanted to get to in order to see the lake from high up.
The walk is along the highest ridge of the mountains above the lake, where at one end is an abandoned hotel called Monte Palace (it’s story is quite intriguing) where there are supposedly the best views. We thought that road was blocked but it turns out it wasn’t. It would have been great to tour a ghostly hotel on such a foggy day. Oh well, that leaves something for our next trip here.
At the lookout called Miradouro da Vista Do Rei (Kings View) we start walking the ridge and we get views of both Sete Cidades on one side and the ocean and villages on the other. Breathtaking views.
Heading down the mountain to the sea we stop at the Farol da Ponta da Ferraria, a lighthouse now electronically operated, with a farmhouse next door which would have been the original lightkeepers house. It is a large lighthouse and building, now a museum.
There are natural pools all over this island and nearby is one that is heated by underground volcanic steam. Have to check this one out for sure! and it’s free. There is also a spa and pools at the same location for a fee.. The drive to the pools is a very steep road with 3 hairpin turns. There is no way a big tour bus would make it down that road. That’s great!
OMG. what a place. We walk down to the sea via a paved path, along the way are facilities, and an ice cream shop (for the summer) and down to the sea where we find the natural pools of volcanic rocks sheltered in a bay and warmed by steam from the earth. There are pools of water to wade into, and an area with ropes tide off in the sea to hang onto in rougher waters. I dip my toes in the sea and find it lukewarm. If the weather had been more favorable, I would have been swimming for sure. Walking between the rocks were holes here and there where waves would crash up and you could actually feel the heat rising up from the sea. Such a wierd sensation.
We head back up to the spa and pay the 6 euro each to go and bathe in the outside pool, also heated by the same source. For 20 euro you have access to a full spa on site – indoor pool, suana, hot tub, etc. for the day.. There is also a bar and restaurant on site. A good deal $$ in my opinion. We soaked in the pool for quite a while, its the size of a community swimming pool and looks very similar. We commented on how they could maybe have done a better job of opening up the view to the ocean as it is just a pool surrournded by concrete, but maybe they did it to shelter from the constant wind. Anyway, it was very relaxing to soak for a while in warm water.
The drive back to the villa was via the one road available which twisted and turned for 30 minutes going in and out of villages. Beautiful, but after a long day, takes a lot out of you because you have to ever be on your guard here with the driving being so challenging.
We still had to get dinner, so we went to Continente in Rebiera Grande and picked up cooked chicken, chips, dessert and wine. We have enough for lunch tomorrow.