Sao Vicente across the island at the North side meant driving through the middle of the mountains, but as we discovered once again, there are tunnels which make the drive quick and easy. It must have been very expensive and quite the feat to tunnel all that roadway.
Once we arrived at the North side, at least this time of year, we noticed a vey different and wilder Atlantic ocean with large impressive swells. There are signs directing surfers to particular areas that are safe for surfing (I had read this island is a popular surfing destination).
First stop, Grutas Sao Vicente, a tour of the volcanic caves, which were the origin of the islands, and a visit to the modern museum were well worth the ticket price of 8 euro. each. At the seaside in Sao Vicente are quite a few resturants and cafes.
In either direction east or west are beautiful seaside villages, again accessible via a well maintained freeway and tunnels. While driving along the coast on this side of the island you will glimpse the original coastal road, directly beside the sea – narrow, winding, and precariously cliffside – which looks like one lane for today’s cars, or a bike path? We headed west in search of lunch in a less touristy spot, and drove along the coast to Ponta Delgada where we discovered a very quaint Madeiran village. In town, the Estalagem Corte Do Norte, an 11 room inn and restaurant had a menu with vegetarian options (hard to find here) and good prices. The owner, from the UK, was very helpful with information of the area. We tried the a Madieran steak sandwich on Bolo (a hearty type of bread they make here) and a soup with poached egg and thyme. All delcious.
After lunch we took a short walk on cobbled streets to the local parish church, Igreja do Senhor Bom Jesus, then it was back on the road to another seaside village called Porto Moniz. Arriving in the town it is evident that it is more of a tourist destination. There is parking for buses, hotels, shops and restaurants along several roads and of course the famous natural pools. I was hoping for a swim in the pools but being colder this time of year and the ocean more fierce, the pools were closed.
We backtracked to Sao Vicente to retrace our route to Calheta, stopping in Agua de Pena at a Modelo Continente which is one the larger chains of grocery stores here.