Our hike started, and finished on Madeira’s second highest peak, Pico do Arieiro (1818m). The plan? Well, survive was first on the list, second was to traverse the ridge to the tallest peak, Pico do Ruivo, and back. I might be using a little over exaggeration with item 1, but this hike had been known to have had hikers fall to their deaths.
It was 10 am on the summit when we set off with the typical high elevation heavy wind, temperature around 12 degrees with all of us wearing layers and quite keen. The views in all directions were shrouded in cloud but we would get the barely discernible glimpse of 1500 ft drops on both sides while traversing the paths. Honestly, the first 1/3 of the trek was quite nerve wracking and I didn’t spend a lot of time looking for exposed crags of volcanic rock. There are safety wires connected by rebar along the exposed sections and multiple tunnels. It was a little disconcerting where fallen rocks had taken out, or damaged, the barrier leaving you quite exposed in several places along the route. People have fallen to their deaths on this trail and I now know why. I quickly learned to not admire the views while walking, to not fiddle with the camera while walking, to walk slowly and deliberately while walking … you get the idea .. this was no walk in the park.
We made it to the destination peak, Pico Ruivo, (1862m) and had lunch at the shelter but did not climb the last steep incline of stairs to the summit. Zero regret from any of us. Quite frankly, we were all exhausted and knew we were testing our physical limits. We were a little confused with the routing and thought we could go back in a different direction but we never found any other paths that were open. We found out later that rock slides cause the closure of certain paths . Comforting !
The return trek was quite different anyway as we now had spectacular views all the way back. We also had more confidence to enjoy ourselves and take it all in.
All told, 5 hours had passed, approximately 10 kilometres of ascending and descending through soaring peaks and the occasional chilly tunnel. I was at my physical limit when we finished, a little surprising when I thought I was in pretty good shape. The others were all exhausted also. High fives all around.
This was the most exhilarating hike I have ever done, and quite possibly ever will. I felt so happy to have done this with my daughters. I think we will all remember this day fondly. Oh, and by the way, that gin and tonic that was ready, a snack and swim when we got back were brilliant.